Do you have questions about your lawn?
Below are some frequently asked questions that we receive. If you don't see the answer to your question, drop us a line. We'll try and get you an answer as soon as possible. Please note: answers may or may not apply to your particular situation. Only an on-site inspection by one of our trained and certified technicians can we give you an accurate diagnosis of your lawn problems.
1. I need to know how to water my lawn. Everybody has a different answer, but I usually hear 1" per week. How do I tell when I need to water or when I have watered 1"?
First, the easiest way to tell if you have watered 1" per spot is to measure it. The next time you water, put a couple of flat-bottomed pans or tuna fish cans at various distances from the sprinkler. Time how long it takes to get 1". From then on, you will know how long to water.
Most important is how to know when to water. A general rule is that in the absence of normal rainfall, you should provide 1" of water per week. If at all possible, this should be done in one to two waterings per week, to encourage a deep root system. However, watering requirements can vary according to sun, shade, terrain and turf type. In the early stages of drought, the grass will turn from vibrant green to light green then brown before it turns brown. This is often seen better from a distance than from up close. If you see this happening, it is time to water. Sunny and sloped areas will usually be affected first. Some shady, low-lying areas rarely need to be watered. In situations such as these, it is often best NOT to water, to avoid the incidence of disease.
The time of day watering occurs is also important. Turfgrass diseases are caused partly by water remaining on the blades of the grass plants. If you water when there is already dew on the ground (usually about 10:00 PM to 10:00 AM) you will be safe because you will not be making the blades of grass any wetter than they already are. Feel free to call R & M Landscaping anytime to answer your watering questions.
2. I feel I have been watering properly, but my fescue grass has brown spots. What's up?
There is a good possibility your fescue has brown patch disease. This is very common in Tall fescue lawns in the summer, when it is hot and humid. This disease can come in overnight and cause serious damage to a lawn within a few days. There is currently no way to prevent this disease. If the areas are circular and there are small brown spots on the individual blades of grass, it may be brown patch.
Applications of disease control materials are part of the R & M Landscaping program, so we can help. Call us right away. If you take care of your lawn yourself, go to a garden center as soon as possible and purchase a disease control material specifically labeled for brown patch. Be sure to follow label directions. This disease is made worse by extended wet and humid periods, so water only when necessary, and only when there is already dew on the ground.
3. Every time I mow my bermudagrass, I leave brown swirls all over the place. What can I do to make this stop happening?
Bermudagrass tends to magnify any inconsistencies in the ground. Bermudagrass consists of brown sheaths, with the green leaf blades up above. When you mow, the green blades are shortened. If there are dips and holes in the ground, it causes the mower to 'scalp' some areas, exposing that brown sheath and causing brown swirls in the lawn. The swirls disappear eventually, but unfortunately, it's usually a couple of days before you mow, then the brown is back.
'Sanding' or top-dressing the lawn can help minimize this problem. Large amounts of sand are dumped on the lawn, then raked smooth over the surface. This causes the sand to fill in low areas, thus keeping the scalping effect to a minimum when you mow. This will help, but it won't cure the problem completely. Mowing frequency is very important with bermudagrass. Mow at least once per week. Golf courses often mow their bermudagrass greens daily for best appearance and playability. Of course, this is unreasonable for most homeowners, but mowing one to two times per week will help. Any less often, and the scalping problems will certainly be worse.
4. I have a shady, mossy area in my lawn where grass just doesn't seem to grow. I seed the area every fall, the grass comes up just fine, then dies the next summer and the moss comes back. Am I doing something wrong?
Repeated aeration treatments over several growing seasons may help along with re-seeding with a grass type that is better suited to shade. Some grass types won't tolerate shade and therefore won't thrive. Moss however, loves the cool shady conditions. It however, is not the cause of the dying grass. If possible try to reduce the amount of shade in the area. Thinning the tree canopy might make a healthy difference in your lawn.
If removing some or all of the shade is out of the question, extending the bedding areas or 'natural' areas with pine straw or mulch would probably be the best solution. If you've tried the above recommendations several times, it sounds like nature is telling you grass just won't work in that situation. It's probably too shady.
If you're stumped, give R & M Landscaping a call. We'd be happy to take a look at it for you and let you know if we can help you.
5. My backyard is tall fescue and it doesn't spread like my bermudagrass. How can I make it thicker?
Tall fescue is a clump type grass and doesn't have 'runners' like bermudagrass, so it doesn't really spread much at all. It is also native to Kentucky and northward, so it really takes a beating in our harsh summer climate. Even a well cared-for tall fescue lawn will thin to some extent every summer. To maintain the density, tall fescue usually needs to be aerated and seeded annually. This is best done in September to October in our area. Aeration should be done with a 'core' type aerator, which pulls plugs out of the ground. Then, a hybrid fescue seed can be broadcast. The rate of broadcast can vary widely, from two to six pounds of seed per 1000 square feet, depending upon how thin the lawn is. Call R & M Landscaping for specific recommendations for your lawn.
6. I'm moving into a new home and no grass has yet been planted. What should I do?
The choice of turf type depends largely upon your environment. For general durability and drought resistance, the hands-down choice is bermudagrass. The only limiting factor with bermudagrass is shade. Bermudagrass will tolerate very little shade. It needs full sun, all day, every day, to really perform well. For a semi-shaded area and easy installation, tall fescue works well. It can be seeded, so it isn't very expensive. For sun or filtered shade, zoysiagrass can be a good choice. Zoysia is a beautiful turfgrass, thick and lush. It isn't quite as drought tolerant as bermudagrass, but will tolerate a filtered shade. Zoysia seed is nearly impossibly to obtain, so Zoysia needs to be sodded, making it a beautiful but expensive choice.
With all lawns, soil preparation and post-installation watering are both crucial. Rocks and debris should be removed prior to installation, and the seed or sod needs to be kept evenly moist until it is well-established. For more information, call R & M Landscaping. Aeration of all lawns and seeding of tall fescue are both services R & M Landscaping provides.